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HomeEntertainmentThe ‘New Burberry’ Era Begins With Daniel Lee’s AW23 Ready-to-Wear Collection

The ‘New Burberry’ Era Begins With Daniel Lee’s AW23 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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Not a single stereotypical beige checkered pattern was in sight at Burberry’s Autumn/Winter 2023 (AW23) Ready-to-Wear show at London Fashion Week on Feb. 20. The British luxury fashion house, whose influence has waned in recent years, welcomed its new chief creative officer Daniel Lee. Lee brings a youthful revival of the brand’s image with his first collection since taking on this role. His AW23 Ready-to-Wear collection strays away from the brand’s traditional image, signaling the start of a new era for Burberry filled with reinvented English archetypes, classic plaids and electric blues. 

Lee embraced Burberry’s British heritage by incorporating the English Rose, punk and fox hunter into 55 looks. Gone was the beige Burberry exhibited commonly in previous years; replacing it was a palette of dark, sophisticated colors including indigo, crimson and canary. But what stood out the most was, without a doubt, the electric blue woven into the classic checkered pattern which Burberry is known for — adhering to the brand’s history but also bringing in a breath of fresh air. 

This new “Burberry Blue” was first seen in the label’s new branding introduced by Lee, which features the return of its original equestrian knight logo and the brand’s name in serif font, an element of design that differs greatly from the recent trend of luxury brands employing sans-serif fonts for a more modern look. This, too, symbolizes that Burberry is undergoing an evolution unlike any other. 

Aside from the innovative colors, the collection presents a homage to British culture through various references to the English Rose. Aside from the obvious rose graphic that reads “not all roses are red” on Look 45, the English Rose can be found in ruched fabric and stamped graphics throughout the various pieces. Trench coats and scarves are seen throughout the collection, with Lee putting a new spin on these classic Burberry pieces through daring color choices. The Burberry check is seen throughout the collection in varying colors, but all exploded in size compared to their counterparts in previous collections. Feathers and fur gave the styles some extra flair, while bags, leather and faux fur completed the looks.​​​

Lee’s debut was shrouded in high expectations for his designs and overall direction. In his previous role as creative director of Bottega Veneta, he single-handedly revived the brand and transformed it into what is known as the “New Bottega” today. His feats in this role include designing the Pouch clutch bag — the fastest selling bag in the brand’s history — focusing on simple, logo-less products and bringing about the trend of square-toed heels. The vibrant green that is now synonymous with the brand comes from his creative direction. Lee’s impressive work at Bottega Veneta has made the stakes high for his debut at Burberry, and many wondered if he could pull off the same feat again for another world-famous fashion house. 

Undoubtedly, Lee did not disappoint. He proved that he is not only able to reinvent a brand, but honor it as well. By opening the show with two classic Burberry trench coats, Lee showed that he is not attempting to overturn everything the brand has established — he’s here to bring about a revolution. The passing of the baton from one creative director to another is always a spectacle, and the most impactful changes occur when a brand adopts a new, unique vision. After being viewed as old-fashioned for years, it’s finally time for Burberry to change its public perception while remaining true to its roots. 

The brilliance of this collection lies not only in the youthful revival of the brand but also its reflection of Burberry’s history as a fashion house and its embracement of its British heritage. Being one of England’s most prestigious brands, Burberry has a reputation to uphold, and hints of British influence can be seen throughout the details of each look. While adhering to the histories and cultures that have influenced the brand over the years, Lee also experiments with new colors and patterns. Even with the mountainous weight on his shoulders, Lee refuses to play it safe. 

Burberry’s AW23 Ready-to-Wear collection proves that Lee lives up to the high expectations surrounding his new position. “Change is inevitable,” reads the sleeve of a shirt from Lee’s designs, and he is absolutely right. The “New Burberry” era is beginning, and whatever direction Lee chooses to head in, it will certainly be revolutionary. 

Grace Tu is a 2022-2023 Social Media Manager. She can be reached at tug2@uci.edu.