Lifelong trailblazer and originator of the punk style, Dame Vivienne Westwood died at 81 years old on Dec. 29. Westwood was known for her unique pearls that feature distinctive orbs to represent tradition and futurism in symbiosis.
Coming from a proletariat background and unable to see herself making a living in the art world, Westwood went to the Harrow School of Art and the University of Westminster for just one term before dropping out. While working as a teacher to young children, Westwood sold handmade jewelry on London’s Portobello Road.
When Westwood started making clothing for her boyfriend and Sex Pistols manager Malcolm McLaren in the 70s, she made a name for herself with her provocative designs and punk-rock style, changing what was socially acceptable to wear in public forever. She took inspiration from BDSM culture and biker fashion by including chains, leather and zippers in her collections.
Her first runway collection for London Fashion Week entitled “Pirates” was a collaboration with McLaren in 1981. In typical Westwood fashion, she challenged gender norms by making this collection extremely fluid, and various models wore her designs, regardless of their gender identity.
Almost a decade later, Westwood’s relevance had not faded as she shocked Paris Fashion Week in 1990 with her “Portrait” show, featuring French 18th-century paintings and models kissing on the runway. Always one to incite change and stay in tune with the political climate, Westwood not only showcased a revolutionary line but simultaneously made a statement in support of gay women’s rights.
Just two years later, Westwood flashed her punk-rock roots and much more at Buckingham palace when she chose not to wear underwear to receive her Order of the British Empire from the Queen. Unafraid to demonstrate her convictions despite her well-known status, Westwood was sure to let her audience know that she is just as hard core as she expresses through her art.
In 2008, Westwood’s bridal couture made its way to the big screen in “Sex & The City: The Movie.” Carrie Bradshaw (Sarah Jessica Parker) wore the massive Westwood statement to marry Mr. Big (Chris Noth) in long-awaited matrimony.
Together, she and McLaren opened a boutique in London called “Let it Rock,” which announced itself with an eye-catching pink, vinyl sign to passersby. That boutique was rebranded and renamed to “Too Fast to Live, Too Young to Die,” “Sex,” “Seditionaries” and “World’s End.”
Westwood’s iconic Los Angeles store opened on Melrose Avenue in 2011. A bright pink neon sign hangs above the store as it illuminates the street — day and night. Ornate, gold-lined glass doors give way to polished wooden floors and racks and cases filled with curated Westwood designs. Almost always, the store is preceded by a line of eager customers, ready to shop the iconic styles.
Her fashion is widespread, often worn by celebrities from many different sects of popular culture like Gwen Stefani, Hailey Bieber and Kim Kardashian. Gen Z has taken a particular liking to the Mini Bas Relief Choker, featuring a ring of pearls strung around the royal orb centerpiece.
Her popularity is due to its tangibility. Much like Juicy Couture did, Vivienne Westwood connects both celebrities who can easily afford her designs and the working class who save to be able to wear her designs. The connecting factor is the politically charged nature of the clothing and jewelry. When you clip that necklace around your neck, you make a statement. It’s not just fashion. It’s art. It’s a movement.
Westwood’s signature logo, the orb, was first used in 1986, and she continued to use other themes of royalty, punk rock, and religion in her collections. Westwood used shocking and graphic iconography to spread her activist ideologies as an artist.
In her self-titled memoir, she wrote, “I did not see myself as a fashion designer but as someone who wished to confront the rotten status quo through the way I dressed and dressed others.”
The primary social justice causes that motivated Westwood’s crusade were the issues of climate change, war, human rights and capitalism. With her death, these beliefs do not fade. Announced on the official Vivienne Westwood Instagram @viviennewestwood on Jan. 15, “The Vivienne Foundation exists to honour, protect and continue the legacy of Vivienne’s creativity and activism. We seek to create a better society and halt climate change.” Founded in 2019, Westwood’s death seems to have lit a fire under the foundation’s declaration for change.
Artist, changemaker and punk rock pioneer, Westwood’s legacy is more than can be contained in words. Her work has altered fashion and culture since its origins and will continue to do so without her because of her fundamental values and drive for change in the world.
She is gone, but her campaign for change is forever.
Lillian Dunn is an Arts & Entertainment Staff Writer. She can be reached at lbdunn@uci.edu.